Or voyage to the Isle of Lewis and return
We were cruising up the A9, somewhere between Pitlochry and Inverness, when there was a loud bang. Tyre pressure on a rear tyre was rapidly going. We carefully limped to the next lay-by, number 77, at about 1500’. Thank God it wasn’t raining.
It’s a long way up to the Hebrides from Kendal. 353 miles to be exact. But the anticipation of a drive through Scotland where there’s little traffic was too good to refuse. Ullapool was the first destination. We were picking up the ferry to Stornaway the following morning.
A few weeks ago I was talking to my old pal John, born and bred in Ballater, Royal Deeside, and asked him what Ullapool was like. Could he recommend a good restaurant perhaps? He’d never been to Ullapool. All his life in Scotland and he’d never been.
We’d booked the Morefield Motel to stay in, which was much better than it sounds. Clean, quiet, and friendly.
The beginning of the day had started out fine. A prompt departure on a beautiful day. Past Stirling by mid morning, and then I was looking out for Andy Murray’s Cromlix House. When I was running Craigendarroch in Ballater, back the mid 80’s, Cromlix had had a great name as one of the best country house hotels in Scotland. And Andy Murray had obviously been advised to invest some of his hard won shekels in bricks and mortar. But would he know how to run a hotel? He wouldn’t need to of course. It’s run by a management company, ICMI, and it’s been done well. Albert Roux’s team is installed there and the food is fabulous. There are two tennis courts, one small junior one and the other full size. It’s just off the A9 so thinking we’d just go and have a look, we ended up having a light lunch.
Drinks in the bar first, water of course, were accompanied by a lovely hummus dip and delicate cheesy strips to eat it with. Olives were also provided. We were taken into the dining room having just ordered a main course.
And then canapés arrived. Fishy roulade and a small choux ball with warm cheese inside. Then came the bread, with two butters. Next a Chef’s complimentary pea mousse quenelle. Finally the main course. No pud thanks. Coffee? Yes please. Need to stay awake. Accompanied by petit fours of course. Altogether amazing value. Effectively 5 courses for the price of one main courses. That’s why I always recommend lunch in good restaurant.
Back on to the A9. And then disaster. Call the AA? Couldn’t shift the wheel nuts. There was a spare tyre. I later discovered when I got the car back the locking wheel nut key hadn’t been supplied to me. So I called Porsche Assist. The car would be towed to Aberdeen to be repaired. A taxi was provided to get us to Ullapool. And a hire car would be provided for us to continue our journey. All part of the service. Of course it took a bit of time, and after fish and chips with the taxi driver, who had come from Perth, we eventually made it to Ullapool in time for a quick drink and bed. Would the car hire above to enable use to catch the ferry we’d booked in the morning? No, but there’s a later one, and we got that.
So the morning was spent checking out the pretty little seaside town of Ullapool. It’s famous for the North Atlantic Drift which allows it a mild climate. We couldn’t see any palm trees though. There are apparently New Zealand cabbage trees, mistaken for palms. Lunch wasn’t a difficult choice.
The ferry service is very good. Recently upgraded by the look of it. Terry had organised a self catering base in Stornoway. Well equipped and not far from the town. It was perfect. Terry had also decided it was time to take my diet in tow. He was already into a few weeks of weight loss. He cooked the first two nights and provided the walking lunches and it was all delicious.
We would have three days of walking. The first was Great Bernera, on the West coast of Isle of Lewis. the second Beinn Duabh, Isle of Harris, and the third, a delightful walk including Blackhouses, at Arnol also on the West coast of the Isle of Lewis.
The first, Bernera, is a famous walk. Great Bernera is the largest of many islands in Loch Roag off the shores of Lewis, connected to its larger neighbour by a road bridge since 1953. Not particularly high but with a coastal edge, it’s a delightful path, and we had a fabulous lunch on a remote white sand beach, with the turquoise sea gently lapping on the beach. We even dipped our toes into the water. Too cold for anything more. At the edge of the beach is an Iron Age house which was re-constructed recently. The originals have been re-buried.
We’d almost completed our circuit back to the car at the Community Centre, when a driver stopped us on the road and asked whether we’d dropped a jumper. Turns out I had. But the driver hadn’t picked it up. Then another driver came a long and asked the same. No. he hadn’t either. Terry went on to the cafe on a “I only want something to eat if it’s a Tunnoch cake” mission.
I drove back quickly and retrieved the top. No tyre tracks and still perfectly wearable. Entering the cafe and looking forward to a cup of tea I searched everywhere for Terry but could only see a Tunnoch. Oh joy.
After tea we decided to visit the famous Standing Stones at Calanaish on the way back. They are indeed impressive, but unfortunately no-one knows much about them.
The second day was a different type of walk with a steady climb into the clag on top of Beinn Dhubh, on the Isle of Harris. Coming off the Western side down towards the sea was steep but the hillside was covered in heather and peat bog and every step felt like wading through peat treacle. But at about 1000’ down the clag started to clear and we could see an amazing view down to the beach and sea, and out to the islands. Once finally down we were able to enjoy a solitary and long walk along the bleached sands, albeit with regular showers and a good bit of wind. We’d been so occupied getting down we didn’t have a chance to eat our lunch.
We were soaked. But as we were on Harris, Terry said we had to go and visit the new Distillery where they made a gin. It’s in a beautiful building not long open. You can see where the money is made on the Island. And of course we had to go to the Harris Tweed shop. No, nothing bought.
Dinner was at the oddly named but highly rated Digby Chick in Stornaway. Food was nice but overcomplicated by the Chef trying to add too many ingredients on the plate. It was delicious though, and the service was great.
Our third walk included the famous Blackhouses. You can self cater there now or stay at the hostel. Would be a fabulous place to stay.
Then the walk proper started. It’s a terrific cliff top track. Well not a track exactly; just don’t go too near the edge because judging from the look of it, it keeps moving. Dramatic scenery was revealed with every turn. 
Dinner was at the Boatshed in Stornaway. As ‘cool’ a place as you’ll find on the Island I suspect. Scrubbed wooden tables, paint pallet by Farrow & Ball. Scallops are back on the menu having not been available for at least two meals. Sadly, their beer was not as good as the food. Then it was back to Elbow and Radiohead live from #Glastonbury. Bliss!
The return journey was uneventful, just as we wanted. The car with a new tyre had been delivered back to the motel. One interesting footnote is that Ullapool is very busy largely due to the North Coast 500. Our Motel owner said he was booked up to the end of August and the last three years had been amazing. On the drive down there was a steady stream of cars, bikers, and bicycles heading North.
It’ll be why I’m going back up there.
Terry & Mike are regular walkers in the BootBoys, based in the Lake District. You can see all their walks here: BB’s
Mike Bevans 